Pierce took the day off work to show me around their district, with the highlight being a visit to the southernmost tip of the African continent.
I stayed another day with the family in Bredasdorp — they insisted I stay longer, eager to share more of their beautiful area. After breakfast, Pierce and I stopped by to see Nelmarie, who was already busy in her craft shop. Pierce stocked up on a few essentials for the road, and then we were off.
We drove through endless stretches of dry farmland, eventually reaching Arniston (also known as Waenhuiskrans), a charming fishing village where settlers’ cottages are still inhabited. After a leisurely tour, we ventured onward, taking dusty, unpaved roads—sometimes even crossing through private farmlands — on our way to Struisbaai.
Struisbaai, located in the district known for ostriches (“Struisvoël” in Afrikaans), is one of the best-kept secrets of the South Cape. This picturesque coastal village boasts the longest unspoiled white coastline in the southern hemisphere, stretching an incredible 17.5 km. It’s perfect for swimming, boating, and watersports—though not today, as fierce winds lashed the coast.
As we explored, I couldn’t help but notice the hasty construction of holiday homes — some architectural disasters, to put it mildly. If you want to live in a cage, go find one, but please don’t build one!
Just a kilometer from Struisbaai lies Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of Africa, and the main reason for my anticipation. Standing here, at the very tip of the continent, I was struck by the sheer sense of adventure that has captivated explorers for centuries. The Portuguese named this spot Cabo das Agulhas — Cape of Needles — because the compass needle shows no variation between true north and magnetic north here.
Cape Agulhas is more than just a geographical point. Its history is filled with peril. Known as the Cape of Storms, this region has wrecked over 130 ships since the 15th century, earning it the nickname “Graveyard of Ships.” One such wreck was the Arniston, a Dutch East Indian ship that went down in 1815 while carrying British soldiers and their families. Only six of the 370 passengers survived.
Here, at the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, I filled a small glass bottle with a blend of both waters—courtesy of Nelmarie, who had given me the bottle earlier. It’s a souvenir I hope to carry with me for the rest of my journey.
We took a break, simply watching the waves from the car while the radio played, a moment of peace amid the desolation. For lunch, Pierce treated me to a double cheeseburger at a seaside restaurant in Struisbaai.
It was amusing to see how every establishment in the region emphasizes its southernmost status: southernmost café, southernmost gas station, southernmost flower shop—you name it. By the time we passed the southernmost hotel, I had seen enough.
On the drive back to Bredasdorp, we were even slowed down by a tortoise crossing the road, taking its sweet time.
Back in town, Pierce took me to the Shipwreck Museum and then to the local pride and joy: the Kapula Candles factory. The business started in a garage by a woman who hand-painted candles. It has since grown into a large-scale operation employing over 200 people. We were given a quick tour, and I was amazed at how everything is still done by hand. Workers poured hot wax into molds, then cleaned and prepped them for the intricate painting process in another building.
In the painting section, each worker had a small oven with colored wax and a paintbrush or sponge. It was astonishing to watch them paint a candle in mere seconds, and they produce thousands daily! Even the packaging is done by hand. When we visited, the workers were mass-producing Valentine’s candles for the American market. So, if you see red candles with hand-painted white hearts at Woolworths next year, think of this factory in South Africa.
After the tour, we returned home, and I took a much-needed afternoon nap. It’s hard to absorb so much information and process all the sights as my journey continues, but I suppose the naps keep me sharp.
Later, Nelmarie treated me to bobotie for dinner—a delicious dish of minced meat and egg, served with rice, corn, and sweet potatoes. Mom, you’d love it! This is one of my favorites now!
I spent most of the evening online, but by midnight, I was nursing a headache, probably due to the lingering effects of my sunburn. Thankfully, sleep is a great healer.
Good night, Bredasdorp!
—Ramon
