Today’s journey took me from Betty’s Bay to Stanford, most of it done by hitchhiking. It was surprisingly easy, though the area grows more remote the farther you travel, with distances between towns increasing.
I woke up around 8:30 this morning, had a quick shower, and joined Hazel and Nathalie downstairs as they opened their coffee shop. I was surprised to find the restaurant already bustling with customers enjoying breakfast. Was I still in quiet Betty’s Bay?
Hazel served me a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, and toast while Nathalie asked around among her customers if anyone was heading toward Stanford, my next destination. Although Hazel and Nathalie couldn’t take me themselves—they were too busy with the café — a woman named Carol graciously offered me a ride to Hermanus, halfway to Stanford. I gratefully accepted.
I thanked Hazel and Nathalie for their warm hospitality and excellent meals, and off we went. Near Hermanus, Carol picked up her children from school and then dropped me right in the heart of this charming seaside town.
Hermanus is a rapidly growing town built along the shores of Walker Bay, near the southern tip of Africa. Magnificent green mountains, half-shrouded in clouds, loom over the town, which is famous for being a prime spot to view the Southern Right Whale.
(Why is it called the “Right Whale”? Because it was considered the “right” whale to hunt—it’s large, slow-moving, swims close to shore, and, due to the oil in its body, floats when killed. A sad history for such a gentle creature.)
The town’s name has an interesting history. Hermanus Pieters, a teacher and sheep farmer, arrived in the Cape in the early 1800s and brought his sheep here to graze along the coast. Fishermen and holidaymakers soon followed. In 1902, the village was named Hermanus Pietersfontein, later shortened to Hermanus.
With my sign indicating Stanford, I stood along the exit road. It didn’t take long for a car to stop, and the driver took me all the way to my destination. He even knew the people I’d be staying with — a small town, indeed!
An unpaved road led to the entrance of the family farm of my next hosts. I was greeted by their dogs, and a surprised Chloe opened the door. Her mother, Sara, welcomed me to Stanford and prepared a simple lunch. The honey for the meal came straight from the farm, and I had to cut it from the wax myself — a unique experience!
The family originally hails from Kenya and now enjoys a quieter life in Stanford. The farm is more of a hobby for them now, mostly raising cattle. David, however, is involved in another fascinating business: selling machines that convert saltwater into chlorine-free, clear swimming pool water. Who knew that was possible?
Next to the farmhouse, Sara has a boathouse she uses as a studio for her painting. She showed me her work—mainly horse-themed pieces—and I found her art both serious and captivating.
The family’s four children have all moved away, except for Chloe, who is currently studying Shakespeare for her upcoming English exam.
After a tour of their home, David enthusiastically took me to Stanford’s main street. He was amazed by the simplicity of my project, traveling the world through the kindness of hosts, and lamented that he hadn’t thought of it himself.
Over coffee at The Ploughman’s Pantry, David introduced me to some locals and shared my story. Afterward, he eagerly showed me the town’s only traffic light—or “robot,” as they call it here. I wasn’t sure what to expect, given the town’s size, but it turned out to be just a novelty light in front of the local sports bar, signaling whether the bar was open!
We stepped inside for a cider before heading back to the farm. Sara told me over dinner that not much happens in Stanford. She shared a curious story from about nine years ago: a man committed suicide after an argument with his wife by drinking tree poison. His funeral was canceled because locals feared the trees in the cemetery would die if he were buried there. Life in Stanford certainly comes with its own unique tales.
Dinner was a delicious affair — grilled lamb with broccoli and potatoes, shared with the family and two of their friends. Conversation ranged from my project to my lack of fear in traveling to how most people in the world aren’t so bad, and no, I’m not an axe-murderer… Yet.
For dessert, we enjoyed peaches with creamy vanilla ice cream.
I spent the last few hours of the evening behind their computer in the boathouse, Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers playing softly through the stereo. Writing reports and responding to emails might seem like work, but it doesn’t feel like it when I can walk outside, look up, and see shooting stars streaking across a clear night sky…
Good night, Stanford!
Ramon.
