From Brakkefontein, I was driven most of the way to Oudtshoorn. The landscape transformed dramatically as we drove — from misty to tropical to semi-desert — all within 25 minutes. Upon arriving in Oudtshoorn, rain began to pour, and I wandered barefoot through the city. Fortunately, a few beers and some pool games at the Backpacker Paradise made everything better.
That morning at the farm, my hosts let me sleep in. I eventually joined them for a relaxed Weet-a-Bix breakfast around 10 a.m.
The rest of the morning was light-hearted. I spent time playing with their male hand-raised sheep, humorously named Jolina (a female name, just for the fun of it), while the men worked with the ostrich chicks. Wendy prepared us a delicious ostrich lunch, served with potatoes and mashed pumpkin. Ostrich meat has a rich flavor, much like sirloin, and it’s quite filling.
After lunch, I packed up my things, ready to leave. I was scheduled to catch a shuttle bus in George that would take me to Oudtshoorn around 3 p.m. Since Anthony and his friend also needed to head that way, they kindly offered to drive me.
Even though we were in a hurry, Anthony took a quick detour through Mosselbaai for me to have a peek. Interestingly, the Guinness Book of Records lists Mosselbaai as the second sunniest place on Earth, just behind Hawaii. But today, the town was blanketed by clouds — no sun in sight for me!
From Mosselbaai, Anthony drove us over the hills of the South African south coast toward the town George. At the local backpacker hostel, we discovered I had missed my shuttle bus — timetables are rather fluid here in South Africa. So, Anthony decided to drive me another 30 km north to a junction on the main road leading to Oudtshoorn.
That’s when I was truly amazed. In just 25 minutes, we traveled through drastically different climates. First, we passed through a lush, tropical landscape — green and humid. Then, we crossed a misty mountain range and entered the Karoo valley, where only 20 mm of rain falls annually. It was like driving from one world into another. I later learned this is one of the only places on Earth where the environment changes this quickly over such a short distance.
I thanked Anthony for the ride and his hospitality at the farm. Not long after, I caught a ride that took me directly to the entrance of Backpacker Paradise in Oudtshoorn.
Oudtshoorn was once home to the wealthy “feather barons,” who earned their fortune from ostrich feathers in the late 19th century. But when the feather industry collapsed, the region had to find new ways to survive.
They did a great job of that—if I wanted to see everything the area offers, I’d need to stay here for almost a week. The Cango Caves, with their stunning stalagmites and stalactites, the Swartberg Pass (built by convicts), and the Little Karoo‘s semi-desert climate are just a few of the attractions. Although the Karoo looks dry, there’s enough water to sustain the hidden farming communities nestled in green valleys.
I was supposed to stay with a host in Oudtshoorn, but he was out of town for the weekend. Instead, he arranged for me to stay at Backpacker Paradise, which was a lucky break.
The Backpacker Paradise is a cozy, double-storey house with a balcony perfect for watching sunsets — though I didn’t get to see one today due to the rapidly changing weather. The manager, Louis, welcomed me and showed me to the double room reserved for me. The hostel also has a TV lounge, a self-service kitchen, a quirky splash pool, and a separate pub in the back garden.
After settling into my room, I took a barefoot walk along the main street. My hiking shoes were in desperate need of repair, and I soon learned how it feels to run barefoot through the street when a sudden thunderstorm announces itself with heavy rainfall!
I sought refuge in the town’s only internet café, where, by chance, one of the assistants recognized me from an article in Die Burger, an Afrikaanse newspaper. What a coincidence!
After some time on the internet, I dashed back to the hostel, where I met Greg and Louis. We enjoyed a few Windhoek Lagers while watching a rugby match on TV.
Dinner was served around 7 p.m. Normally, the barbecue would be outside, but with the rain and wind, the cooking was moved indoors. Professional cooks prepared the ostrich meat in the fireplace, and a lively group of travelers —Irish, Australian, Dutch, and English — gathered around the table. We exchanged stories of places we had visited and shared tips on where to go next.
After dinner, I took a brief nap, though the thunder and rain made sleep difficult. By 9 p.m., I was back in the pub with the others, playing pool. Greg and I teamed up against the Irish, but we were no match for those semi-professionals!
At 9:45 p.m., Louis tossed me the keys to his pickup truck — known here as a “bakkie“—since Greg doesn’t have a driver’s license. Driving to the café through the rain was my best option. It had been a while since I’d driven, and navigating the left-hand lane in a pickup truck was a bit nerve-wracking, but we made it for the planned Letmestayforaday-chat I had planned on this website for this night.
The chat session was a success, with people from ten different countries joining in, even my mum said hi! It was fascinating to see everyone discussing their favorite sports, holiday destinations, and, of course, my travels. After more than an hour, I logged off, closed the café, and drove Greg back to the backpacker pub.
By then, pool games had turned into bets for pots of money, so I sat back, enjoying conversations with fellow Dutch travelers while Louis poured more beers.
Around midnight, I headed back to my room, ready for a good night’s sleep. The rain had stopped, leaving a humid air in the room. Louis had told me that people in Oudtshoorn had been praying for rain like this, as it’s rare in the Little Karoo. That sounded like a good enough reason for me to appreciate it too.
Good night, Oudtshoorn!
—Ramon
